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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.